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The Modern Boulderer

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Luis Rodriguez Interview | Brian Sandona | The Modern Boulderer

     Born of a long legacy of alpinism and rock climbing: the Modern Boulderer is the newest manifestation of the spirit of rock craft.  What was once just a passtime or a fun diversion, such as slacklining or frisbee, has become a life's pursuit, an art in its own right.  Bouldering has matured, has grown and struggled, has paid its dues, and is now emerging as a complex and vital sport, with its own rules and ethics. 
 
     Because of bouldering's start as a diversion or practise for "real" roped climbing, it has attracted a colorful and often motley crew of practitioners.  Though this has added to the uniqueness of the sport, it has probably also caused other climbers to not take bouldering seriously.  The crazy antics of these "pad people" took main stage, while the real work of bouldering was being done, unrecognized, in remote places such as Joshua Tree and basically any backwoods place that John Gill found a lonely boulder worth climbing.  The spirit of these dedicated boulderers continued. 
 
     In the 80's and early 90's, an outspoken class of climbers called "boulderers" appeared on the scene and grew rapidly.  While these new boulderers were certainly dedicated, their enthusiasm often led them to bash other climbers and other modes of transportation up rock.  They trashed each other; they trashed their boulderfields.  Access became an issue, and boulderers began to make a bad name for themselves. 
 
     In this period of climbing history that heralds the glory years of the Access Fund and Trail Days, etc, the Modern Boulderer emerges.  He is no longer just a dirtbag climber, or an angst-ridden adolescent.  The Modern Boulderer could be a mother, a philosopher, or a musician.  The Modern Boulderer brings his/her life experiences, ethics, and motivations to the rock.
 
     One such boulderer is Fred Nicole, who's creativity as an artist and thinker translates to the way he approaches the sport of bouldering.  Through careful technique and a creative vision, he has repeated and created boulder problems that define the beauty and control of the sport.
 
     The point is, that the Modern Boulderer is concerned with more than simply the boulder problem in front of him.  He is concerned with nature and its management and upkeep.  He is concerned with travel, with global awareness. 
 
     While there are still plenty of immature and offensive boulderers around, it is clear that as the sport matures, so are the climbers.  The Modern Boulderer is a well-rounded and thoughtful person who's life affects his bouldering and who's bouldering thus affects his entire life.